In a giant leap for nonbinary representation, in 2012, Casey Legler became the first AFAB model signed by Ford to model men’s clothes. While nonbinary people have always existed, only recently have they gained media representation and visibility in the public eye. If you’re nonbinary and an aspiring model, here’s what you need to know to thrive in the industry.
A nonbinary model is someone whose gender identity does not fit within the male/female binary. They pose for photos and videos or walk on the runway to promote goods and services.
While the majority of people identify as either male or female, others experience their gender identity outside of this dualistic mode of thinking. Instead of seeing gender as either/or, nonbinary people open the possibilities of being both or neither. Nonbinary is the most common label used by someone who does not strictly adhere to the gender binary, but other similar labels include genderfluid (someone with a fluctuating gender identity), agender (someone with a genderless identity), and genderqueer (someone who has a non-normative gender identity, generally), among others. No matter how you label it, there’s space for a variety of gender expressions in the modeling industry.
Gender-bending has been around in modeling since at least the ’70s—think of icons such as David Bowie and Grace Jones—but was often done for the aesthetic rather than as a means of identity expression. Today’s nonbinary celebrities like Sam Smith, Bella Ramsey, and Emma D’Arcy have helped demystify the concept, but nonconforming models still face challenges with discrimination and representation in the industry, from misgendering to proper or private changing areas.
Nonbinary Actors and the Challenges of the TradeFrom runway to print to commercial work, the path to becoming a nonbinary model shares similarities with traditional modeling routes—but with some important differences. Here’s your guide to breaking into the industry authentically.
1. Decide what type of model you want to be.
The modeling industry has diversified far beyond high fashion. Here are some of the most popular modeling types:
- Fashion models pose and strut for the latest designer collections, whether for traditional lines or gender-inclusive ones.
- Commercial models appear in advertisements for goods and services.
- Parts models use specific body parts (hands, feet, legs, etc.) to advertise goods and services.
- Fitness models show off their muscles for fitness and athletics brands.
2. Study your favorites and practice your skills.
Follow successful nonconforming models such as Teddy Quinlivan, Kai-Isaiah Jamal, and Rain Dove on social media. Look into their modeling work (print campaigns, runway shows, and digital content) and track their career trajectories to see how they incorporate gender identity into their modeling. Study how they strut on the runway, hit their poses, and use their facial expressions, and then incorporate that into your practice.
3. Create an honest portfolio.
Take inspiration from other nonbinary models and celebrities to start establishing your modeling portfolio—but remember that it should also be a representation of you. Show off your authentic self with a wide variety of outfits and poses that highlight your individual approach to fashion beyond binary constraints.
4. Build your social media presence.
Attract attention from agents and brands by showcasing your modeling work on social media, especially on image-forward platforms like Instagram. Use relevant hashtags such as #nonbinarymodel, #genderfluidmodel, #agendermodel, #genderqueermodel, and of course, the viral #thisiswhatnonbinarylookslike. Follow and engage with gender-inclusive brands such as Chromat, Telfar, TomboyX, and GC2B—you can even reach out to see if they’re interested in working with you.
5. Land gigs.
Once you’ve gotten your feet wet with your social media activity, it’s time to start branching out to actual paid work. Search through our comprehensive model jobs database to find modeling gigs that allow you to celebrate your authentic self, and attend open casting calls for major brands like ASOS, H&M, and Calvin Klein that feature nonbinary models.
6. Seek representation.
While nonbinary talent can certainly land a traditional modeling agency—Indya Moore is represented by CAA Fashion, for example—you might feel more comfortable seeking representation from an inclusive agency, such as:
7. Be an advocate.
Regardless of where you are in your career, you may find yourself needing to be an advocate for yourself and others. Correct misgendering when it happens, ask for accommodations (such as a private place to change) when needed, and remember you’re allowed to refuse if you’re asked to wear clothing that triggers dysphoria. The more trans and nonbinary models make themselves heard, the more the industry might default to more inclusive conditions.
8. Stay true to yourself.
Above all else, the secret to success as a nonbinary model is to be the most authentic you that you can be. Even when it might be terrifying to put yourself out there, it will never beat the existential dread of living out your life and career in a way that feels disingenuous. Humans are drawn to authenticity in art and in others; if you let yourself be who you are—gender be damned—that beauty will not go unrecognized.